Still at an early work-in progress on following this guide, this is more of a blog of experiences than an issue.
Removing the nuts on the radio:
The correct tool is something akin to the X-key radio repair tool, but almost all of the available ones on the market are cheap and not good fits. I'll annotate here when I've adjusted mine to a better fit as to what ID and stub widths fit best.
Exterior Screws
Guide says T8, for my toolkit, T9 fit better, your millage may vary depending on the quality of your tools, find the tool that fits best from your tools
Plastic cover top back
Be wary that this assembly consists of small plastic parts and a spring.
pulling/prying out the metal chassis
I found that a small flag shaped pick inserted into the bottom screw-holes to where the chassis meets the brass inserts allowed me to pull the chassis free without prying, alternate between both holes and gently lift.
PCB Screws
Perhaps my toolkit is on the small side, I found the right fit was with a PH1 driver. By my count there were 12 screws including the two holding the screen. I released the tabs on the screen flexi before removing the screws, and the screen was free to move as soon as both its screws were released.
That's where I am for now, I'll update this as I make further progress.
Still at an early work-in progress on following this guide, this is more of a blog of experiences than an issue.
Removing the nuts on the radio:
The correct tool is something akin to the X-key radio repair tool, but almost all of the available ones on the market are cheap and not good fits. I'll annotate here when I've adjusted mine to a better fit as to what ID and stub widths fit best.
Exterior Screws
Guide says T8, for my toolkit, T9 fit better, your millage may vary depending on the quality of your tools, find the tool that fits best from your tools
Plastic cover top back
Be wary that this assembly consists of small plastic parts and a spring.
pulling/prying out the metal chassis
I found that a small flag shaped pick inserted into the bottom screw-holes to where the chassis meets the brass inserts allowed me to pull the chassis free without prying, alternate between both holes and gently lift.
PCB Screws
Perhaps my toolkit is on the small side, I found the right fit was with a PH1 driver. By my count there were 12 screws including the two holding the screen. I released the tabs on the screen flexi before removing the screws, and the screen was free to move as soon as both its screws were released.
That's where I am for now, I'll update this as I make further progress.